Happy Monday! If you missed the guest post I did for Kelly @EclecticallyVintage, then you will want to check that out!
Today I am showing the details of how to update an old Sewing table with wood planks I found, guess where……next to a dumpster! The sewing table was purchased at least two years ago, and was intended to replace my current night stand, Yes, it is a chair, and yes, I got it off the sidewalk…..The seat was big enough to hold all my junk:
This is the table I started with:
Here is a list of the supplies you will need for this project:
Wood Planks of choice
Measuring tape and carpenters pencil
Gorilla Wood Glue
320 grit sand paper
Shop vac, hair dryer (for blowing out dust), and or tack cloths
Stain and sealer
Paint color of choice
I had a pile of scrap pine planks that I thought would great make a great topper for this old table, and give it a totally new look.
I did a “dry fit” onto the table. This way, I can figure out, kind of like a puzzle piece, which pieces fit together the best.
I know it seems like it would have made sense to cut them all the same length before this, but there was variation in the wood, so I had to kind of slide them back and forth until I had the right “fit”. Then I marked each plank where to cut.
Next, I removed the planks and kept them in the same order, laying them on the ground, then cut each one in order. I then prepared the top by adding Gorilla Wood Glue, then placing the planks back on top and weighting it down while it dried.
After the glue had set, I drilled pilot holes at each end of the planks and just a few, where it was a little looser in the middle. Remember, I was not going for a “perfect” look here. I then screwed in wood screws into each hole. I filled in each hole with Wood Filler, (I extend my wood filler by adding saw dust and water to it. (Keep it in the fridge though, it will get moldy if you don’t). I have done this many times, and it works perfectly every time.
When the woodfiller had dried, I sanded the top smooth with a power sander and a 220 grit pad. I went back over the top by hand with a 320 grit piece of sand paper, for an extra smooth finish.
I used my shop vac to get all the dust out of the grooves, and to get a really good “stainable and clean” surface.
Now time to stain, I used a new product that Minwax is making called “Polyshades”. A combination stain and Polyurethane. Since I hadn’t invested more than $10 into this project, I was willing to give it a try. I really liked it. Shelly @ALittlebito’Shizzle has other ideas……We agreed to disagree.
I used the “Antique Walnut Stain” finish (but this picture shows another flavor). I liked this product so much I used it on another entire kitchen set I did (post later this week)
The finish was a just a little too shiny, so I toned it down with a coat of Dark Wax from Myland’s Furniture Wax Company
When I had the top as I wanted it, I went to work on the body of the table. I mixed two colors of CeCe Caldwell’s paints. I used 1/2 Seattle Mist (grey) and 1/2 Vintage White.
Cece Caldwell’s Paints has a very high adhesion, so I didn’t worry about priming first, but the finish was very highly lacquered, so I did rough it up a bit with 220 grit sandpaper. Then I painted one coat only and waited about an hour for it dry. (It was very hot the day I painted). When dry, I sanded lightly with a 320 grit sandpaper to make the finish perfectly soft and smooth. I went back over the table with CeCe Caldwell’s 100% natural furniture wax. I let it set up for a few hours, and then buffed it all over for a beautiful, shiny and durable finish. I added three knobs that I had on hand, I like that none of them match, it gives more character to the piece.
Here is the finished piece!